Assam’s ‘Mekhela-Chador’ Shines at New York Fashion Week as Sanjukta Dutta Unveils ‘Kuwoli- The Mist’

Guwahati: Assam’s rich handloom heritage took centre stage at New York Fashion Week as celebrated designer Sanjukta Dutta presented her latest collection, ‘Kuwoli—The Mist,’ to international acclaim. The showcase marked yet another proud moment for the state, with the traditional mekhela-chador reimagined for a global audience.

Held as part of the spring/summer edition of New York Fashion Week, Dutta’s collection stood out for its seamless blend of Assamese textile traditions and contemporary couture. While global fashion houses unveiled their latest creations, Dutta’s presentation offered something distinct: garments rooted in heritage yet styled with modern sensibilities.

The collection, titled ‘Kuwoli – The Mist,’ drew inspiration from the cultural essence of the state. At its heart was the mekhela-chador, the state’s iconic traditional attire, reconstructed into modern silhouettes without compromising its intrinsic elegance. Intricate craftsmanship in pat and muga silk, the fabrics synonymous with its weaving legacy, was featured prominently, reflecting both refinement and authenticity.

The runway ambience added a deeply evocative touch. As models walked in ensembles crafted from Assamese handloom textiles, the background was set to traditional music, from Jhumur rhythms to Goalpariya folk songs. The carefully curated soundscape underscored the cultural narrative behind the garments, transforming the fashion show into an immersive celebration of Assamese identity.

Dutta herself appeared at the finale draped in a mekhela-chador, symbolically reinforcing her commitment to her roots. One of her design motifs carried the phrase “Sagorave Asomiya” (Proudly Assamese), encapsulating the spirit of her presentation, which is a confident assertion of regional heritage on an international platform.

This year’s edition of New York Fashion Week featured prominent designers and global labels such as Coach, Sergio Hudson, and Norma Kamali. International celebrities, including Anne Hathaway and Gigi Hadid, were also spotted at various shows during the event, underscoring the scale and prestige of the global fashion gathering.

Amid such illustrious company, Dutta’s showcase carved a distinctive niche by foregrounding indigenous craftsmanship. The audience comprised fashion enthusiasts, buyers, and cultural connoisseurs from across the world, many of whom responded warmly to the originality and depth of the presentation.

The event was attended by senior officials from the Indian diplomatic community in New York. Vishal Jayeshbhai Harsh, Deputy Consul General of India in New York, praised the designer’s work, describing the show as extraordinary. He noted that designers like Dutta serve as powerful cultural ambassadors for India. By promoting traditional handloom textiles on global platforms such as New York Fashion Week, he observed, they not only preserve heritage but also generate economic opportunities for artisans.

Dutta has spent over a decade championing Assam’s handloom traditions on international stages. Having left behind a secure engineering career to pursue fashion, she has consistently worked to empower traditional women weavers while reviving interest in indigenous textiles. Her earlier showcases at global events in cities such as Milan and Paris, as well as appearances linked to the Cannes film circuit, have strengthened her reputation as a torchbearer of Assamese silk in the competitive world of haute couture.

Following the New York show, Dutta reaffirmed her commitment to expanding her brand globally while ensuring that the Assamese handloom receives its rightful recognition. She emphasised her determination to transcend geographical boundaries and position Assam’s silk traditions firmly within the international fashion discourse, not merely as fabric, but as art.

In doing so, Sanjukta Dutta once again ensured that Assam’s loom echoed far beyond its river valleys, resonating instead on one of fashion’s grandest global stages.

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